You're welcome!
Just changing the cap will [further] widen the LF - HF XO roll off points 'gap', shifting the time/phase between them further apart, causing a dip in the response, but if it sounds better overall........
GM
I "cloned" the originals and used the 16ohm L-pad's I had for starters. The crossovers seem to be working well with my speakers. L-pad works as expected but I'm going to order a couple of those Omite pots and experiment.
One other question. If I want to raise the crossover point to say 1000 or even 1200 is that a simple cap change or is it more involved?
Thanks all for your help!
You're welcome!
Just changing the cap will [further] widen the LF - HF XO roll off points 'gap', shifting the time/phase between them further apart, causing a dip in the response, but if it sounds better overall........
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Any suggestions as to cap value to change the XO point to 1000 Hz? Right now there are 4uf in the HF side and 10.5uf in the LF side.Originally Posted by GM
No, I came from an age where DIYers used an adjustable capacitor bank to dial in XOs and don't have any of my calculators loaded to make a reasonable guess for a good starting point.
Haven't tried it, but a lot of folks have been using this [now] well proven freeware with excellent results for getting a good-great starting point, though max accuracy [for the anal retentive] requires inputting actual driver measurements: xsim crossover - Google Search
Note that compression horns have a more complex impedance than a typical cone/dome driver, so what may look 'pretty' on paper usually will require some component value adjustment, often including any series resistance, so playing with a trim pot in place of R1 may prove beneficial for dialing in best overall sounding cap, R1 value combinations.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
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